Churches across the fields

Tuesday 15^th August; Islip Dave to Fotheringhay

We had a very peaceful night even though the houses of Thrapston are just across the river.  We were away by 8.30 in much better weather than yesterday – no rain and less wind. 

Early morning at Islip Dave

Islip lock was our first, then we were out in the open with flooded gravel pits either side though they were mostly obscured by the ubiquitous willows.  After Titchmarsh lock, pretty Wadenhoe church appeared away on its hill, disappearing now and then as the river swung this way and that.

Wadenhoe church

The water point at Wadenhoe, in the pub garden, was free so we stopped – water points, indeed any of the normal canalside facilities, are few and far between on the Nene so you use them when you can.  There was a dustbin by the tap, so I got rid of the rubbish too.  We tend not to have much actual rubbish, as we recycle everything we can, though that’s not always easy on the boat. 

As Dave brought Bonjour into Wadenhoe lock we were hailed by a chap in a cruiser coming up behind us – he was keen to share with us.  While we were there, an EA guy came to check the lock and say hello, and I took the opportunity to tell him about a small amount of pollution we had seen on the way.  It took a while to work out between us where it was – it was only his second day on the Nene and he was as unfamiliar with the place names as we were.

EA guy on the Wadenhoe lock bridge

 

 

 

The couple on the cruiser were on their way to Oundle marina so we shared the next two locks with them, taking turns to prepare or finish up.

Sharing at Lilford lock

They suggested we had a lunch stop at the marina, where there is room for two narrowboats just before the entrance, on a nice firm edge with mooring posts provided.  If we wanted to stay overnight, the office will let us have a key fob to get in and out of the gates if we wanted to go to town.

Outside Oundle marina

But we decided to carry on to Fotheringhay, another four locks.  We are finding this part of the Nene more attractive than the upper stretch to White Mills lock.  There are lots of dragonflies, some pretty big though there are several smaller damselflies too.  

Why did you have to land on something the same colour as yourself?

The locks take a long time – some are wheel-operated – and the river winds around all over the place.  Churches come and go across the landscape, all built in the lovely warm stone commonly used around here.

This one could be Tansor church

Finally the church at Fotheringhay started to be visible, high on its hill.  We had been recommended to go through the bridge at Fotheringhay and moor by the castle mound, which we did.  We were glad to tie up after a long day and eventually did so at 5.30, having left Oundle at 2.  We are not used to such long hours cruising.  Of course the first thing we did was to climb the mound!  There is our boat, way down on the river.

There is nothing remaining of the castle stonework apart from a large lump of the keep, down near the river bank.  It is protected by railings, which have several explanatory plaques about the history.

Can you see the thistles at the corners of the railings?

There is a great deal of information online about Richard III (born here), Mary Queen of Scots (lost her head here) and other Dukes of York who lived here.  Mary’s fans have sowed Scottish thistles around the mound, which I bet has delighted local farmers and gardeners, as the seeds float wherever the wind blows.

A flock of goldfinches was busy taking advantage of the ripe seeds.  We went to visit the church after we’d eaten, but had to be content with walking round the outside as the door had been locked before we even moored up.

It’s very tall

The church was seized by the state during the dissolution of the monasteries and parts were demolished.  But the main part was left standing as it acted as the Parish Church, which it does to this day.

The arches must have once led into the parts that were demolished

As dusk fell Dave went online and found a recording of ‘Fotheringhay’ by Fairport Convention – very atmospheric when you are so close to where she was imprisoned and executed.  When Dave took Meg out before bedtime he found it a little spooky.

We had paid for our stay (£5) earlier in the evening and were happy to do so for such a beautiful and interesting mooring spot.

11½ miles, 7 locks, 8 hours cruising