Norton junction and Crick

Thursday 9^th July; before Norton Junction to beyond Crick

It’s a very good spot here if you want to be in the shade.  The widebeam booked to use the tunnel hadn't yet appeared (unless it was the boat that passed us at 6am, we didn't get up to look), and we were away at about 8.30, soon passing the local swan family having breakfast. 

If you look closely you will see ten cygnets

It wasn’t long before we were rounding Norton Junction.  There would have been plenty of space to moor had we come this far yesterday but we thought it would have been in too much sun for comfort.

Early morning shade

The pretty cottage at the junction is almost obscured by trees.  But what a lovely spot for a cup of coffee in the shade.

You could sit here all day watching the boats

Although the sun was already hot we found the cruising mostly shady and cool under the tree canopy as the M1 draws closer to the canal.  We passed Watford Gap motorway services, where years ago you could moor and walk across the lorry parking to the shop to get milk as we did once.  But it has been surrounded by high security fencing for years.  We wanted water – would we have time to fill up at the tap below the Watford flight?  No – I went up to find the lockies who said we could start up as soon as the boat in the bottom lock was out of the way.  We waited in that lock for last of the descending boats to come out of the second lock, crossed over in the pound and we were on our way up.

In the staircase

The paddles (red before white, you’ll be all right) were in the sun but the lock chambers and towpath were in the shade so I was the only one getting hot!  After rising up the top lock we moved onto the water point, leaving the lockies to start taking the first waiting boat down.

The Watford flight is known for the colourful flower displays.

By the time we had filled with water, dealt with the rubbish and swapped a book in the book exchange, the last of the waiting boats was entering the top lock.  Eight down today so far and only us coming up.

The book exchange.  Donations here help to fund the flower displays

The sun was very hot by now and I got the big brolly out to shade us as we cruised.  That worked well, as it wasn’t too windy, and it came in useful in Crick tunnel, which is rather wet at the Crick end.

South portal, Crick tunnel

Another opportunity to cool down before we emerged into baking heat of Crick where we nabbed the first patch of shade we came to after the tunnel.  We moored, I changed into my dress which is more comfortable in the heat for walking than shorts and t-shirt, and set off for the village, even though it was nearly lunchtime.  We urgently needed some supplies and my first stop was the Post Office shop which has locally grown veg in season.  Perfect timing – not only could I get eggs and our paper of choice, there were local runner beans, new potatoes just dug, and lettuce.  And the shop had air-con.  I went on to the Co-op for the rest of the shopping.  That was also nice and cool so emerging into the heat again was a shock!  But at least most of the return journey was partly shaded.  We had lunch and I realised we were running out of cheese and yogurt, so as the PO is dog-friendly Jess and I went up again.  Jess was a great hit with two workmen and the lady who runs it who has a box of treats for canine visitors.

Just outside the door as we left was this pussy cat, entirely unconcerned that people had to step over her.  Jess didn’t know what to make of the situation and sneaked round behind me in case of claws.

Meanwhile Dave had made the boat ready, and picked us up at the road bridge.  We knew the moorings in Crick would be in the sun for a while so went on further, hoping that the space next to the Crack’s Hill winding hole would be free.  It wasn’t, but we found a shady spot further on past bridge 16 before enjoying the Magnums I had bought in the post office and shoved in the freezer while we cruised.  The heat was intense even in the shade, the steel hot to the touch even at 6 pm – not surprising, as the shade temperature was 32.9.  Wetting the steel and laying wet cloths on the hottest bits might have cooled the steelwork, but it was still the same temperature inside and out when we went to bed – about 28 degrees.  There was no air movement and in spite of hoppers being out and the sliding hatch open it was too hot to sleep till about 2 am.

7 miles, 7 locks (the Watford flight), Crick tunnel

 

 

The blissful cool of Braunston tunnel

Wednesday 8^th July; bridge 103 to beyond Braunston tunnel

The early morning air was cool and Jess and I had a lovely little walk at about 7.  It was already warm enough for the butterflies, which were out in force!  Mostly the little orange gatekeepers and the slightly less colourful meadow browns.

Blurry, but sharp enough to show the two white dots on the black spot of the underwing, which identify it as a gatekeeper.

And I was pleased to see two little green-veined whites flying around together.  We don’t often get these at home, unlike the gatekeepers.  It’s very like the small cabbage white in appearance but isn’t a garden pest!

Green-veined white

We were on our way at about ten past eight, be-hatted and Factor-50’d.  As we left, Dave spotted a hare in the field opposite – then another.  We’ve not seen hares here before, though we hope see more as we go along the Leicester Line summit.  There was a lot of space available where we normally moor, which would have been in full sun yesterday afternoon and evening, but the closer we got to Braunston the more boats there were, especially under trees.

Why did this widebeam choose to moor on the bend?  Plenty of space on the straight section we had just passed.

We crept round Braunston Turn, and there were plenty of vacant moorings on the stretch before the Toll House – then it was chocker, so it was a good thing we hadn’t wanted to stop!  As we approached the bottom of the lock flight we could see two boats emerging from the lock.  Weren't they tied abreast?  Had one broken down?

Yes they were, and no - it was hotel boat Bywater and butty

They had seen us coming and left the gates for us, and a CRT volunteer helped me close up.  But he had no windlass – instead he had a big banner spread out on the grass and was hoping to encourage support from passers-by.  Good luck with that in this heat!  We usually pop into the little shop to get bread, but today there were extras advertised on the A-frame outside – since the sad demise of the Braunston Banger shop, a butcher in South Kilworth is now supplying sausages, bacon, ham, sausage rolls and pork pies.  So I bought sausage rolls and a pork pie too – it would have been very rude not to.  One sausage roll was soon shared – we needed the energy for the locks.  There was still nobody else going up, even though we had delayed to go into the shop and chat to the volunteer.  Sadly there was a boat several locks ahead of us so I had to empty nearly every one.  We did meet one boat coming down, very frustrated as the boat going up (inexperienced hirers) hadn’t realised they should have waited for them to use the already full lock, and turned it right in front of them.

Putting my back into it?  Actually no, just checking that the water had made a level before I closed the paddle on that side and opened the other gate!

Jess likes to wander about at locks but was finding it rather hot so stayed on the shady towpath side.

Hot dog

At the top we wondered, should we take advantage of the shady mooring and stop?  If we stayed here we might get delayed behind the widebeam waiting to go through the tunnel tomorrow morning.  And we knew there are shady moorings beyond the tunnel.

The beckoning coolness of Braunston tunnel.  It was lovely and not very wet.

We only met one boat in the tunnel.  He wasn’t well positioned, and as we had reached one of the kinks in the tunnel there were some bumps as we passed.  But it was wonderfully cool, and the only person who didn’t enjoy the transit (about half an hour) was Jess who was shut inside.  As we neared the end there was a sudden horrible screeching noise reverberating round the tunnel.  Was it our engine?

No – a CRT bod was chain sawing a fallen tree.  The poor man must have been roasting, even though he was working in the shade.

Though there were plenty of boats moored on this long stretch, there was a lot of good shade available and we chose a spot a couple of hundred yards past Welton Wharf.  Time for lunch and a lazy afternoon trying to cool down.  At least we could take all the windows out, but even in the shade the temperature peaked at over 31.  And there was no boat wifi, and only intermittent signal from tethering my phone.  But shade rules at the moment!

Too dark to read outside by 9pm

6 locks, Braunston tunnel, 6 miles

 

Shade hunting from Calcutt

Tuesday 7^th July; Calcutt to beyond Lower Shuckborough

We seem to have timed our latest trip to coincide with the third heatwave of the year, oh dear.  The boat was 35 degrees inside when we opened up so once the car was unpacked and the boat semi-sorted we left everything open and decamped to the office to collect our keys and get an ice-cream.

Calcutt bottom lock

We paused in the marina entrance for a Stockton-bound hire boat to leave the bottom lock and the waiting Calcutt boat to get into it before we followed.  Calcutt now runs RYA helming courses, and the steerer had been doing some training though we’re not sure if he works at the marina or just has his boat moored there.  At the middle lock we left him to reverse-moor onto the wharf in the top pound, delighted his crew (one of the engineers) had opened the top lock ready for us.  We were able to leave the top gate for a boat that had just come off the water-point and were finally on our way. 

The sun was scorchingly hot, but with a slight breeze it was just about ok.  We turned towards Braunston at Napton Junction, wondering how far we’d get before the heat beat us.  There is some shady mooring near the junction but it is close to the fast and noisy A road that bypasses the village so we cracked on – slowly, as this is a busy stretch of waterway.  We passed our old share boat, but there was nobody around to wave to.

We had a share on Padworth until we retired.  It wasn't that colour then.

There was a short stretch of Armco in a good patch of shade shortly before bridge 103 so we bagged it.  Away across the next bend we could see Flecknoe Fields Farm, which we wanted to avoid as sometimes lorry movements start very early in the morning.  But our spot was delightfully quiet and the coolest place we could be.  All the hoppers on the shady side came out of course, but I was too hot and bothered to even think of blogging.  I should have made the effort though, as the next night the signal wasn’t good enough to do more than check emails before it dropped again. When we went to bed one hopper on the water side stayed out, the side hatch was partially open and the sliding hatch slightly open too.  And it was still hot.

3 miles, 3 locks

Remember the I-SPY books?

Wednesday 3^rd June; home

Apart from grabbing the odd dry spell to load the car, and road-works around Stratford causing delays on the way home, there is little to report boatwise.  So instead here’s something I spotted on CanalPlan during our trip.  I don’t know which book it came from, but I wouldn’t have got any I-Spy points when I was a child – no boats in our part of Essex!

Narrow Boat-Motor Powered
Canal barges about 7 ft. wide are called Narrow Boats.  They usually travel in pairs, the motor boat towing the butty boat.  In the motor boat I-SPY the steel tiller, often with an extension making a long steering handle.  (20 points)
Butty Boat
I-SPY the wooden rudder - called the Ram's Head, the tiller - turned up at moorings, and the bright colourings.  Roses and castles are traditional features of the decorations.  (20 points)
Painted Can
Look out for it on the deck.  And often you will see the dipper too.  Both have the gay roses in pink, red, and yellow.  (20 points)
Ram's Head
The entwined rope is the Turk's Head, and the upright piece is the Swan's Neck (20 points)
Ornamental Chimney
I-SPY the cabin chimney decorated with horse brasses.  Show your REDSKIN badge, and you may be invited to see the brasses inside the cabin too.  (20 points) 

Stop press on Claydon bottom lock; yesterday (Tuesday 16^th June) a navigation closure alert came through for the Claydon flight.  It only said ‘due to damage to offside bottom gate at Claydon lock 21’.  I suspect that the leak had got so bad that the levels wouldn’t equalise to fill the lock any more – if it’s boat impact or balance beam failure they usually say.  Anyway, it’s been inspected, remains closed and the next review isn’t till Friday.  We are lucky we went when we did!

It was too early for the meadowsweet to be flowering – this photo is from July 2019

Trip stats

1 mile 3¾ furlongs broad canals, 6 broad locks

85 miles 2¼ furlongs narrow canals, 68 narrow locks

9 lift bridges; Banbury, Chisnell, Mill, Shipton (twice each), and Haynes (once).

Thunder over Calcutt

Tuesday 2^nd June; Spurfoot bridge to Calcutt marina

It rained all last night and didn’t really stop till towards 9 when we were about to leave.  It was cooler this morning, with occasional glimpses of the sun as we cruised the hour or so to Marston Doles to begin the descent to Napton.  There was a stream of boats coming up, but with a couple going down ahead of us it was slow going.

Marston Doles lock 15

There was a bit of a wait at Napton Adkins lock.  A work-boat was coming up and it took ages.  The piling works below the lock were in full swing and there were two banksmen hanging around at the lock.  They closed the top gate for us but the rest of the time just hung around.

Bored banksmen

The works made it impossible to get back on the boat once we had descended, so Jess and I opted to walk to the next lock.  The piling works occupied the whole distance from the lock to the bridge a couple of hundred yards along.  Three boats were waiting beyond the bridge - no lock moorings any closer!

Very noisy, we didn’t hang about

It rained now and then as we continued down the flight, still following those two boats.  There was space to moor in the pound between the bottom two locks so we pulled in as it was nearly lunchtime.  I went up to the shop for a few bits and pieces and finally got my hands on a pack of buffalo burgers – in the past they have always sold out!  (They went into the freezer for eating after we got home – delicious).  We had lunch and checked the weather forecast for today and tomorrow to decide when to go into the marina.  Tomorrow looked wetter, so we made ready and set off again in lovely sunshine.

This little boat has been here for years

The black clouds were massing as we cruised away from the locks but we stayed ahead of them.

More towpath works, this time near Napton Narrowboats

We were caught in a light shower as we descended the three Calcutt locks but the rain stopped before we got to the bottom.  The marina visitor moorings were crowded but we were able to slot in quite easily.  We went to register at the office and I took Jess for a walk in the meadows, but the clouds were very threatening and when the thunder began we went back to the boat.  Dave had been sitting on the back watching the lightning.   

Threatening

It rained heavily for a while but the thunder didn’t get any closer.  We drove to the Folly for a beer and a nice meal.

12 locks, 6½ miles

The Claydon flight and the summit

Monday 1^st June; Claydon bottom lock to Spurfoot bridge no 124

It was cool and cloudy as we prepared to leave, just before 9, to grab the already-empty bottom lock.  We knew one of the top paddles was out so were prepared to wait for it to fill.

Nearly full

We could see a lockie bringing a boat down, and as their lock emptied he came down to help us.  We hadn’t really noticed on our way down, as the crew waiting to come up had given me a hand, but it seems that the leaking bottom gate together with only one top paddle working has begun to make the top gate a two-person job for most crews.  In fact the day after we came down, a CRT notice to that effect was issued, specifically warning single-handers.   They have vollies on as much as they can, and I suspect the days when the hire-boats pass through are rather busy for them!

The middle lock is where the vollies have their hut, loo and kettle!

At the top lock we met another boat and helped each other out.  The offside top paddle is still out of action.

Slightly annotated

Barry, the lockie who helped us at the bottom lock, re-appeared to ‘fetch something from the shed at the top’ – and asked the boater coming down if he would transport it to the bottom!

Barry had been assisting up to 30 boats a day at the bottom lock, so he thought a chair would be a good thing to have!  The three lockies on duty here are also the reservoir team responsible for checking the feeder reservoirs.  He said that Boddington reservoir, 2 and a half miles to the east according to Nicholsons and which feeds the canal at Feeder Bridge about a mile along the summit pound, was only about 300 mm from full – that’s just under a foot, so they weren’t too worried yet.  We were up within the hour and making our way across the long and winding summit pound.

The uncultivated strips along the field edges are in glorious flower; ox-eye daisies are the ones that are obvious.

We pulled in at Fenny Compton wharf for a pump-out, some fuel and rubbish disposal before stopping for lunch at Wedding bridge and then moving on again.  We took inordinate care to sound the horn multiple times on the approach to Griffin's bridge number 131, the awkward bridge where we had an exchange of words with an oncoming boat on our way towards Oxford.  As you can tell from the angle, our bow is already well over towards the towpath side as we lined up for the bridge.  Our bow was already through the bridge hole when the bow of the boat that hit us was emerging from the vegetation on the right, and that’s when we heard their (rather feeble) horn, and they claimed they hadn’t heard ours at all.  A learning occasion for all concerned.

The wind had picked up this morning and was becoming stronger, but in spite of the cloud it stayed dry.

The flag iris is nearly over, the pale version too

We wanted to get within reach of Marston Doles and the Napton flight, as the forecast is showing rain from later today.  We moored at Spurfoot bridge, 124.

There were guinea-fowl on the towpath but they ran away

The rain started at about 5, fortunately after Dave and Jess had returned from their walk.

5 locks, 9 miles

Cooling down just a little

Sunday 31^st May; Spiceball Park to below the Claydon flight

It was pleasantly cool as I walked off to get a paper and a few bits and pieces.  Being Sunday, Waitrose didn’t open till 11 but we wanted to be away by then, so I walked down the hill to Tesco which opened earlier.  It was very busy – everyone had gone early to fill their trolleys and be ready to pay at 10 when the tills open. We were away before 11, and were delighted to see Dink sitting in her conservatory with her little dog and we all waved merrily.  The canal wasn’t really busy and the few boats we met were at locks.

Helpful walkers closing the top gate at Hardwick lock

Bourton lock cottage had a door open and a light on again, maybe someone is living there now?

The bottom gate needs work as much as the cottage

We were a little concerned that the pound between Slat Mill lock and Cropredy lock might be a bit low.  There was an advice email yesterday, warning that there were very low water levels (again) and they were trying to recover them during the day.  When we arrived at Slat Mill lock it was nearly full, which surprised us as we didn’t think there was anyone ahead of us - the others had been empty.  The bottom gates leak, not that unusual.  But I was so concerned about the state of the top gate, or cill I suppose it could be, that I sent the photo to CRT. 

I hadn’t opened the paddles yet.

We stopped for a couple of hours for lunch, as there was plenty of water in the pound, and waved to a hire boat we chatted to the other day.  We caught up with them at Cropredy lock.  We wouldn’t be behind them for the other locks though, as they were stopping at Cropredy marina for a couple of nights to attend a wedding in the village.  They had arranged their week's boating around the date.  How lovely! 

The first lines of the poem at Cropredy lock. 

There are three other sculptures, which read as follows - 

‘of its bricklined arch/ like a dancer’s sturdy instep/ on the unbroken surface/ where the quilled stumps/ of pollarded willows/ shiver like the steel bristles/ on a flea’s armour/ or rest, head-down like sable/ brushes in a jar of turps.

I like the image of the quilled stumps of pollarded willows, and even the ‘steel’ bristles on a flea, but my Dad would have been horrified if I had left my sable paintbrushes head down in turps!

We came up the three remaining locks on our own and pulled in on the long stretch of armco below Claydon bottom lock.

5½ miles, 7 locks

 

 

A trundle through Banbury

Saturday 30^th May; Nadkey Bridge to Spiceball Park  

We didn’t plan on going far today so didn’t rush to set off.  Between our mooring and Banbury are two lift bridges, which like many on the Oxford are ‘normally left open’ – we have never, as far as we can remember, had to operate any of them.  But today was different.

Shouldn’t Haynes’ lift bridge be open?

You can just see the bright blue of the rope which had been used to keep it closed – I couldn’t work out how, and neither could I shift it to open the bridge.  I tried pulling the rope on the offside but I wasn't heavy enough.  Luckily this is a popular dog walk from the housing estates and two people soon arrived to help. 

This lovely chap helped, the other walker encouraged us!

They confirmed it was normally open.  When we came past last week we had seen a cyclist trying to operate them from the offside, so we wondered if it was someone local.  Between us we got it closed again but I couldn’t work out how to ‘latch’ it.

The deck is badly warped.

I called the CRT emergency line as it looked so dodgy and soon had a call back.  The chap I spoke to said it was probably the farmer who had closed it – it’s his access to the fields that are otherwise cut off by the motorway – and as the fields are so large that is probably why we hadn’t spotted him.  He was pleased I had called, as that will enable them to bring the planned engineering check a bit closer.  The other lift bridge, Foxes, is due to be automated (presumably for windlass operation) later this year.  I’m sure that will delight the locals who otherwise have to go right down to Nadkey to get to the towpath.  On the way to moor at Tramway we passed the remains of the tree which had closed the navigation for 8 hours over a week ago.

8 hours is a whole day’s cruise for hirers, no wonder they were all rushing to catch up!

I popped over to Morrison’s for some shopping and the paper.  It was too early for lunch so we moved on – or tried to!  Forward gear had failed, but at least I managed to get back onto the bank with a rope and moor us up again.  It’s done this before, so Dave knew how to fix it - he unscrewed the panel, freed the red clutch button which had jammed and refitted the control handle over the cog.  It had come loose and needed re-tightening with an Allen key.  It didn’t take long and we were soon on the move again.  A boat was on the water point below the lock, so we went up the lock and used the water point above it.  The Milly M was closed up so we didn’t see Maffi or  Susan.  There was space to moor just past Tooley’s boatyard, just past the venerable Hardy which has been moored (or sunk) here for some years.

While Dave went to Lidl for the rest of the shopping I talked to one of the three men who were pumping some of the water out of Hardy. 

The last round of fundraising raised enough to buy some planking to replace the rotten patches, and soon they hope to take her into the dry dock to fit them – but more fundraising will, of course, be needed.  We noted that the donations box at the Thrupp book exchange was for the Tooley’s charity. 

Dave returned with the nice bread for lunch and we debated whether to stay where we were.  There is little footfall here – pedestrians have to cross the footbridge to get further along the canal – but with the fast-food places and other entertainment venues the potential for noise on a Saturday evening is considerable, so we moved up to Spiceball park.  The mooring wasn’t quite as good as last time, being a bit closer to the Fine Lady bread factory, but still good, and shady too – the sun was out and it was hot again.  Dave went up to B&Q and found a suitable bolt to replace the broken one on the side hatch, and a new fitting for the hose reel which leaks all over the well deck when in use.  It didn’t fit of course, but Dave used the washer to replace the original which had perished.

2½ miles, 2 lift bridges, 1 lock.

Tough locks as we approach Banbury

Friday 29th May; Somerton Meadows to Nadkey Bridge

This morning was quiet and cool, with high cloud which remained until the afternoon.  It was still warm enough for shorts and t-shirts when we set off, around 9.  Somerton Deep Lock was less than a mile along the cut.  This lock has a reputation for being difficult; the gates are heavy but I can deal with them on my own, and the top paddles are extremely stiff to operate.  But I can still do them too, I am pleased to report!

Twelve feet deep

Chisnell Lift Bridge was next.  This carries a footpath and is used by the farm as well.  Last time we came this way it was still raised by hand, using the BW key to release the catch that holds it closed, and pulling it back into place with a chain before re-latching it.  Now it is windlass-operated, very straightforward and easy.

Replaced in 2025

No need for the key now

The canal was still very quiet as we came through the long-term moorings at Aynho, past the wharf and under the permanently-raised Belcher’s lift bridge.

The deck is beginning to twist

We had to wait on the lock moorings at the diamond-shaped Aynho lock, where the Cherwell crosses the cut above it.  A boat was hovering in the slow-flowing stream above the lock as the crew struggled with the top gate, and she was glad of some help.  A Kiwi couple, they were on their way to the Thames and were booked to go up the Basingstoke canal later this year!  I wished them luck – the Basingstoke is notoriously short of water in the summer.  They were soon through and it was our turn.  The problem with the top gate is not its weight or stiffness so much as the slippery bricks on the opening arc, and the distance between the rows of bricks to brace your feet against – it’s fine if you have long legs but for shorties like me … well, I had to get Dave to creep up to rest the bow fender on the gate.  Not to push it you understand, but to stop it swinging shut again while I adjusted my feet!  At Nell Bridge, where the lock takes you back up onto the canal, a boat was on its way down, and with two of us heaving the tricky bottom gate, it was no trouble to open.  Once we were in I would have struggled to close it again but for two lovely chaps returning to the ‘project’ boat of one of them moored a little way along.  We soon passed under the M40 which is now more-or-less present until past Banbury.

Ox-eye daisies at a disused lift bridge

We paused for lunch above King’s Sutton lock but wanted to get closer to Banbury tonight, so didn’t stay long.  Silaging was continuing apace, the second cut of the year.  One farm was collecting it with the sucker-up machine which shoots it into a trailer, to stack it all together at the farm, the plastic covers held down by old tyres.  Another had the whizzy big bale machine like the one we saw yesterday, though this looked like a different design. 

Yesterday’s had an automatic system for cutting the plastic and releasing the bale.  Maybe this one’s was broken as the cheery driver was hacking at it with a small knife.

There have been plenty of kites to be seen on this trip, and today we saw maybe a dozen or more thermalling with buzzards above the boat.  It’s remarkably difficult to get a picture of both together when both boat and birds are moving!

The best I could get

The strong wind was blowing the noise of the motorway away, so we moored at Nadkey bridge, just before the new housing sprawl of Banbury.  Although the boat was now in full sun the heatwave had broken and the temperature was very pleasant.  The wind had dropped and the motorway noise became quite intrusive, but the evening was cool enough to be able to close the doors and the windows on that side of the boat.

Nadkey bridge, nearly sunset.  Pretty, apart from the graffiti.

5 locks, 1 lift bridge, 8½ miles