A shady mooring at Thrupp

Tuesday 26^th May; Dashwood lock to Shipton Bridge/Thrupp

We were away before 9 while the temperature was still bearable. 

A cascade of dog roses on the offside

Once through Northbrook lock, which wasn’t far, there is a long stretch to Pigeon’s lock.  There are a few patches of mooring between Old Brighton bridge and the pipe bridge, which we thought we might get to yesterday, but we were so glad we had stopped earlier – we remembered there used to be tall ash trees badly affected by ash die-back between the Cherwell and the canal, and there seemed to be far fewer now than there were.  The armco had several boats on it, all now in full sun.

Jane’s Enchanted Tea Garden looked lovely in dappled shade, but we wondered where the boat had gone – is Jane still around?

Pigeon lock was easy but the sun was now extremely hot and I was glad we were through so quickly.  The canal is bendy as it skirts the golf course.  Several groups were out playing and all were holding their big umbrellas to protect them from the intense heat.

We wound slowly round the long-term moorings between Enslow Wharf and Baker’s lock.  No respite from the heat for the moorers on the towpath side!

Poppies near Baker’s lock

The Satellite Earth Station is quite close to the canal and on the towpath side, although it doesn’t seem so at Baker’s lock

It was lovely cruising down the beautiful Cherwell, with occasional shade from the trees and the fields basking in the heat.  As we approached Shipton Weir lock at the end of the river section we had to wait for a hire boat to sort themselves out – the way to the lock is obscured by overhanging vegetation, but the river is wide and seems to go straight on so they had missed the line.  Easily done.  A couple of boats were waiting to come up but eventually we were all through.  Between the lock and the moorings is a lift bridge which was replaced a couple of years ago.

30 turns up, 20 down

The first section of public mooring, between a few permanent moorings after Shipton Bridge and the start of the rest of the permanent moorings, is on a long sweeping bend.  There were no other boats, so after a deal of shuffling about we not only got a straight (ish) bit of towpath, it was in good shade too.   Our stern was tied to a bit of rope on the piling (no Armco here), and the bow to mooring pins.   

After a lazy lunch we strolled down to the facilities block to take some books to the book swap, and came away with the same number, so made a donation.  Then it was time for an ice-cream at Annie’s tea rooms, and it was so hot we treated Jess to a doggy ice-cream which she loved.  It cost more than either my cone or Dave’s Magnum so will not be a regular thing!  We started reading our books under the shade of the marquee, then got chatting to the older gent at the next table, who also had several books in front of him.  He looked very familiar but we have probably seen him on a boat, or in the area before.  He had just finished one of his books and gave it to me instead of taking it to the book swap, which was a nice thing to do.  Back at the boat, out came the hopper windows and I cleaned a couple more, then made a quiche to eat cold tonight.  But instead we walked to the Boat Inn for a pint in the garden, and ate there.

Highly recommended if you like bitter

We made use of the shore-based facilities before coming back to the boat.  In the Ladies was this painting of a snake bridge (on the Macc I imagine) with the figure on the bridge controlling the towrope as the bow appears under the bridge and the horse walks on out of the picture.  Shame about the reflections from the lights.

So that’s how it’s done

Dave had heard thunder earlier, but although the clouds had built up we had no rain. 

5 miles, 4 locks, 1 lift bridge

Plan C it is

Monday 25^th May; Somerton Meadows to below Dashwood lock

Although we had been in reasonable shade yesterday and the boat hadn’t become too uncomfortable, it was still too hot to sleep without all the porthole glass removed.  We were up fairly early, not to move the boat as you might have thought but to ensure a cool morning walk for Jess. 

7 am, Somerton meadows

Our original plan for this trip had been to go onto the Thames and up to Lechlade before returning to spend time in Oxford, then leaving the boat at Enslow Marina.  We abandoned this plan early on.  I have been having tendon and cartilage trouble with my right knee, which is very painful.  Dave's arthritis is also a painful nuisance and we realised that it might well be dangerous to attempt to use the rough moorings on the Upper Thames with unreliable knees.  Then it occurred to us that our normal stays in Oxford involve quite a lot of walking too, either on Port Meadow or around the city.  With the heat still building we jettisoned that idea and adopted Plan C, to turn at Thrupp and return to Calcutt. 

It was not long after 9 when we set off, but it soon became scorchingly hot.  We met boats as we left both Heyford Common Lock and Allen’s lock, which speeded things up a little.  At least when we were on the move there was a sight breeze.

This fallen tree turned into a seat with a carved face alongside has been here for years

A boater walking on the towpath used his Key of Power to open Mill Left bridge for us which was nice of him.

The automated lift bridge

This section was in delightful cool shade for a bit of respite from the heat.  We were keen to take on water so waited at Heyford Wharf bridge for a hire boater to finish with the tap before we topped up.  It was so hot now that we decided to cut short today’s cruise after Dashwood lock where we grabbed a good patch of shade in time for lunch.  Even in good shade, with the hopper windows out, it was gaspingly hot.  At 9 pm it was still 25 degrees outside and 26 inside, even with all the hoppers still out.  I know it was hotter elsewhere but this was quite enough to deal with, thank you.

4 miles, 3 locks, 1 lift bridge

Hard locks

Sunday 24^th May; King’s Sutton lock to Somerton meadows

The boat was in full sun this morning and we were dressed for the heat when we left at 8.30.

A good spot on the way to King’s Sutton lock

There were only 4 locks to do today, three of which have a bit of a rep for toughness – Nell Bridge bottom gate, Aynho top gate, and Somerton Deep top paddles and both gates.  Luckily we met boats at all the locks.

King’s Sutton lock

One of these days we might visit King’s Sutton village, just to visit the church which is one of those landmarks which seems to switch sides as the canal changes direction, but it won’t be from the canal as the river Cherwell is in the way, not to mention the railway.  The nearest access is from the bridge back at Twyford Wharf.  We would have stopped at the Pig Place to visit the farm shop but there was no space on the moorings.  They do appear to want your custom though.

At Nell bridge lock a boat was coming up so we pulled in and I went to help the crew close the bottom gate, which is very hard to get moving when you want to close it.  It’s not so difficult to open, so we were  halfway to Aynho before they had got into the lock.  At Aynho it took a long time for the water to equalise when I filled it – the bottom gate leaks – and I managed to get the gate started without much problem, but even in my grippy boating shoes I couldn’t get beyond the first row of bricks.  At full stretch with my little legs I couldn’t reach back to the next row, and the brick surface between the two is so smooth I couldn’t hold the weight of the gate and push effectively.  Luckily for me a passer-by stopped to help and obligingly helped me close it too once Dave had brough the boat in.  A boat arrived as we were leaving so I could leave the bottom gate for them.

The helpful chap is sitting on the bench having some elevenses

In spite of Factor 50 on the back of my neck I felt it beginning to scorch as we slowly passed all the moored boats at Aynho and I had to don Jess’s red boating scarf.  It was too hot for cruising but there weren’t really any good shady spots, so we thought we’d grit our teeth and aim for Somerton Meadows.

Chisnell Lift bridge now has windlass-operated hydraulic mechanism

Somerton Deep lock was empty and a hire boat was just arriving so I opened the bottom gate for them.  The top paddle gear is very stiff and I showed the young lad crew member how to do it two-handed with two windlasses.  I chatted to his Grandad as their boat rose up the lock.  In the ’80s as a teenager he used to walk up here with his mates and buy ice-creams at the lock cottage.  Then the second private jet we had seen this morning flew over.  The other man on the boat asked if that was a Lear jet – yes it was, and apparently Oxford airport is often used by the Formula 1 motor racing teams, which all have bases around the Oxford area.  They use their private jets to fly out parts as necessary when the teams are away on their Grand Prix jaunts.  I had thought there might be an airfield at Kidlington – but it is actually London Oxford (OXF, not LOX as I guessed it might be).   We did see other small planes later in the week, seemingly having gone round in a circle – pilot training also happens there and they do landing/take-off practice.  I had to close the bottom gate on my own as the canal was now very quiet – the gate’s heavy but doable.

No ice creams today

We went on, crossing our fingers that there would be space on the meadows where there are some stretches of shade.  The first patch was occupied by cattle.  There was room for us too but as the cows had  their calves with them, and we had our dog with us, we didn’t think that was such a good idea.  There was plenty of space at the far end, and in lovely shade too.  Before we had lunch Dave checked the wi-fi signal.  In previous years there has been none at all, even using phone tethering.  Luckily there was a strong signal.  I didn’t want to move again after lunch, and Dave wanted to watch a critical footy match – if Spurs were to lose they would be relegated and that is a really BIG DEAL! 

Just perfect

As we could remove the hopper windows and have the hatch open, I cooked the chicken which I had intended as a Sunday roast.  Somehow a roast dinner did not tempt us today.  We would have the chcken cold with potatoes and salad.  Later in the afternoon the sun had moved round to shine along the length of the boat so we didn’t get unbearably hot because the windows could stay out.  I started the long job of cleaning the glass and the window channels of the algae which builds up over the autumn and winter.  It was a beautiful and calm evening.  Spurs had saved their bacon by the skin of their teeth, a cuckoo had been calling all afternoon and the cattle had decamped to the trees by the river across the meadow.  Eventually they all wandered off to the next field, led by a black cow who must have been the matriarch as she led them to the river too.  They grazed as they went.

The bull just followed his ladies.  Some of the calves were clearly his offspring, though many were a lovely russet red like most of the cows (and the Red Devon cattle at home).

The stragglers took about half an hour to disappear.  By about 8.30 it was just about cool enough for Jess to get her walk, over to the river now the cattle had gone.  Dave saw an owl as dusk fell but I missed it.

4 locks, 1 lift bridge, about 6 miles, over 30 degrees

 

The heat builds

Saturday 23^rd May; Spiceball Park to near King’s Sutton lock

It was already hot in the sunshine at 7.30, but the water was calm and no boats were yet on the move.

Early reflections at Spiceball Park

With M&S only 10 minutes away over the footbridge I went up for a chicken and the newspaper before we moved on down to Castle Quays, where we nabbed one of the few available spots, outside the social club – in deep shade.  First we walked through to Lidl for fresh veg and bread, then I popped over to the shopping centre to post a birthday card – at least I thought it would be ‘popping over’ but somehow took a wrong turning and went completely the wrong way.  Eventually I found WHSmith which holds the Post Office (does anyone call WHSmith the stupid rebranding name?  I don’t know anyone who does, certainly not the helpful chap in M&S who told me that's where the Post Office is now) but I discovered the PO was closed – they didn’t say why – and instructions to give your post to a member of staff.  Oh no, they said, you have to go to the post box in the square.  At least the market was on and I got some Banbury Cakes and a punnet of English strawberries.  On the way back I passed several empty units, including Debenhams which will have been empty for a while now.  Then we went through the lift bridge to the vacant water point.  No-one seemed to be in on the Milly M, Maffi’s boat which is moored at  Tooley's Boatyard, but then he strolled by and was soon joined by Susan, who we haven’t met before.  After a lovely chat we only moved on down the lock because a boat was coming up for water!

How do they keep their foot in that odd position?   They seem to find it comfortable.

We stopped at Nadkey Bridge outside Banbury for a late lunch in a tiny patch of shade.  But it wasn’t going to last so we moved on to find something better.

The fields in the area all have a wide border of grass surrounding the crop further into the field.

The cottage at Grant’s Lock, which was burnt out in an arson attack in 2020, is still an empty shell.  An article in the Oxford Mail last October said plans had been submitted for its restoration, but nothing is happening as yet.

Still unloved.

We cruised on in the sweltering heat past Twyford Wharf, where one of the trees nearby is swathed in netting.

Maybe a cherry tree netted against the birds?

We moored at the first suitable spot, at the shady end of the Armco above King’s Sutton lock.  The M40 is a bit noisy but it’s too hot to go further.

Nearly 4 miles, 2 locks, 1 lift bridge

 

 

 

Now it’s getting hot

Friday 22^nd May; Varney’s lock to Spiceball Park

This is a lovely quiet mooring although hire boats started passing at 7.30 – we discovered why later.  It was actually warm enough this morning not to need a woolly hat and a thick gilet.

There might be squirrels

The first few boats were from Union Canal Carriers back in Braunston.    We left at about 9 and met a Napton hire boat at Broadmoor lock whose crew told us some of the story.  We knew a tree had come down on the far side of Banbury, big enough to close the navigation completely, but reckoned it wouldn’t affect us adversely.  A total of eight hire boats were held up travelling north and we passed them all before we reached Cropredy, all having a deadline to meet.  They had all lost at least half a day’s cruising, which would be 4 hours or more.  As there was no indication how long the clearance work would take, the hire companies were contacted.  Someone from Napton drove down straight away, checked whether anyone needed any shopping fetching, and told them not to worry, and try and catch up what time they could.  That is good customer service!  But later on we heard something else.  Apart from the stream of Naptons we met no other boats on our way to Cropredy.

Cropredy Lock.  I’m sure Rod Stewart’s hair used to be green.

There were no boats at all between the lock and the facilities block so we got the closest mooring to visit the shop at the bridge.  Except it was empty, closed down who knows when?  That’s a great shame, as it was a useful little store for boaters but I guess we just didn’t spend enough.  More disappointment followed – no peeing mannequin on the bow of one of the offside moorers! 

But there was a pretty little outboard just past the facilities block.

And a Triceratops instead of the Mannekin pis

We carried on wanting to make Banbury for lunch – we have run out of bread and milk!  It was a pleasant cruise and we were glad to be warm at last.  We met a couple of private boats which had been held up too and obviously let the hire boats get away first.  It had become hot and we were both wearing shorts.

Cool cattle

We were visited by a beautiful little damselfly – this one flashed amber and bronze as it flew.

Further tales of yesterday’s hold-up were forthcoming, all very complimentary about Napton Narrowboats and also the CRT crew who came out quickly with winches and chainsaws and cleared it for navigation by 5.30 (though the notice didn’t arrive till this morning).  But the Black Princes, which would have been going the other way back to Lower Heyford, were told they would lose their deposit if they were late.  That's not an encouraging attitude.  Work is now in progress at the boater-owned Bourton Lock Cottage.  For a long time it was boarded up with a number asking for a call if deliberate damage was noticed.

There is scaffolding at the chimney end

A family with a young lad worked us through.  Soon we were passing the famous Dink and Malc’s canal-side house.  They used to wave to all passing boats, sometimes from the hot-tub with a drink in hand!  One of them unfortunately died a few years ago, Dink I think.   

The hot-tub is long gone but the picture on the wall looks new-ish so Malc might still be there, but we didn’t see anyone.  There was just one boat moored at Spiceball Park, which is a shady mooring well before Castle Quays where most people moor.  There is just one boat between us and the footbridge to M&S which is the direction I took as soon as we were tied up!

Spiceball mooring – one boat behind us, one a long way ahead

Jess spent a lot of time watching for squirrels and on her walks discovered rabbits to chase too.  These moorings can be affected by noise from the factories further on, but we are at the quiet end.  It was warm enough to sit out at the stern while tea was cooking.

5 miles, 6 locks

Across the summit and down the other side

Thursday 21^st May; Radio mast moorings to below Elkington’s lock

It feels strange to be writing this in the baking heat of the Bank Holiday weekend, but it was grey, dull and very windy last Thursday morning – so it was cold cruising as the wind was in our faces.  Except when the canal changed direction, which was often!

Wide uncultivated field margins mean more prey for barn owls

At Griffin’s bridge the canal bends right back on itself, and with trees all round and nil visibility we sounded the horn.  With no response we started through and with the bow already through to the other side of the bridge hole another bow suddenly appeared from behind the offside vegetation.  Dave slammed into reverse of course - just as the other boat sounded its horn – and there was a collision.  They seemed to think that because they sounded their horn we should be the ones to stop!  They clearly hadn’t heard ours, and maybe they had sounded theirs earlier though it was one of the throaty ones and we certainly hadn't heard it.  They were extremely aggressive, shouting the odds about us needing a new horn and generally being unpleasant.  Maybe on our way back we will keep sounding the horn just to be sure we are heard.

Something lovely to calm our shattered nerves

The gas bottle had run out as we had breakfast, so a stop at Fenny Compton marina was called for.  We topped up with fuel and had a pump-out as well, and Dave bought some more grease for the stern tube as the existing pot will soon need replacing.

Is this a reasonable price these days?

It was late morning by now as it’s such slow going round the bendy bits.  At least the sun had broken through the clouds!  Now it was the Fenny Compton tunnel, converted to a cutting in 1868, but generally very narrow and we were pleased there were no boats coming towards us.

Fenny Compton tunnel

We stopped well before the Claydon flight for lunch and when we moved on to the top lock a boat was just coming into the bottom.  Once we’d pulled in and I had gone to help I discovered why it was taking such an inordinate time to fill.  The offside ground paddle at the top was out of action, and the offside gate paddle at the bottom was also locked off and apparently couldn’t be properly closed so was leaking.

Claydon top lock

There was a boat ahead of us so I had to turn the next lock, but there were volunteers at the middle one to work us through.  There is a little garden there and they do their best to grow a few flowers and veg, but it’s difficult as they are only there one day a week.

Claydon bottom lock

Then we started to meet boats on their way up, so apart from a paddle being out at the bottom lock it was all straightforward.  Rather than moor here we thought we’d get a little further on, so went past Clattercote Wharf where in late summer there are usually hundreds of pumpkins ripening.   There used to be a lot of scarecrows too but today just a few pale ghosts remain.

We dropped down Elkington’s lock and found a pleasant patch of armco in lovely warm sunshine.

7½ miles, 6 locks and a very reasonable split.

Nearly blown back to Napton

Wednesday 20^th May; Napton Adkins to past Ladder bridge (the radio mast mooring)

It’s a quiet spot here and we awoke to some dry weather at last, though the towpath was still very wet.  We left for Napton Adkins lock at about 9.20.  Once we had got past the end of the bushes on the offside we could see who had been our neighbours overnight.

Good morning

Once we had gone round the bend we could see where the towpath works were.  New Armco has been fitted to the lock landing and beyond, but it’s currently unusable as there is a lot of infill to be added before it is fit for use.

It’s quite a distance to the last two locks at Marston Doles so I got back on the boat.  Both the locks needed turning (emptying) but the gear and gates were easy enough and we were soon up.  The water point at the top was free so we stopped for a top-up and to get the kettle on.

Connaught Historic Racing is still here.  The Reliant Scimitar is centre stage (almost) as we used to have one.

I steered for a while so Dave could give Jess a walk.  He was wearing shorts but I was well wrapped up and still cold in the strong headwind.  Well it was a headwind at times but the canal is quite bendy along here so it was a case of constant adjustment of the tiller.  Every time I tried to take a photo or even have a sip of coffee I lost my line, the wind was so strong.  I was a little concerned about bridge 122 – it’s on a bend and we have noted on our Nicholson’s ‘line up early’ – but I couldn’t get round far enough and ended up having to deploy reverse gear to avoid hitting the bridge.  The second approach was fine thank goodness and I didn’t make contact with anything.  Once Dave was back steering I could take some photos. 

The lambs are growing up.  Their mum has lost chunks of her fleece, I think they sometimes lose it from the stress of feeding two growing youngsters

Around bridge 125 we started to wonder when we would see evidence of the HS2 works.  Way across the fields to our right we could see our destination – the radio mast, still 2 twisty canal miles away.  We got to the U-shape and once we had switched to be travelling west we started to see the HS2 works. 

Nicholson’s extract

The viaduct isn’t here though – the line passes close to the water where the canal bends to the north, and then goes off across the fields.

This must be an ‘accommodation tunnel’ so the farmer can get access to the fields again once the work is done.  One day.

Waterway Routes shows that the crossing is next to bridge 128.  We knew that one of the two temporary work bridges had recently been removed as delays were notified in the stoppage notices.

The viaduct is now in place but it’s not joined to anything yet

We left the wasteland behind and made for the mast.  This is one of the loveliest moorings on the system, peaceful, open, views – enjoy it while you can folks, HS2 will be running just a few hundred yards away in eleven years’ time… maybe… it said on the radio yesterday it would be operational in 2037, or maybe a year or two later.  What a monumental waste of our money.  We’ll be in our mid to late 80s by then and quite probably no longer boating independently. 

Anyway, there was plenty of room to moor, and although a couple more boats arrived to join the few already there it wasn’t at all crowded.  Our neighbours spent some time staring across the fields to the HS2 line through a gap in the hedge.  I took Jess for a walk later on.  The towpath is narrow and uneven and at one point I nearly fell in.

Moored in the distance

We had heard sedge warblers, a yellowhammer and seen a reed bunting while we cruised today.  While Dave was cooking I caught sight of an unusual shape flying away over the hill.  Could it possibly have been a barn owl?  Yes it could – it flew straight past on the offside a little while later, a lovely sight.

3 locks, 4½ miles, HS2 (boo), a barn owl (hurray!)