Moving out of town

 

Monday 25^th August; Birmingham to Windmill End

We left our mooring soon after 9.  Several boats had left the moorings or passed by yesterday, but I guess they had been going to Cambrian Wharf or Holiday Wharf for water etc as they were all moored on the 14-day stretch beyond Sheepcote Street bridge.  The weather was lovely for cruising, calm and sunny but not too hot.  I dropped Dave and Jess off at Smethwick junction.

I think this must be the Engine Arm aqueduct

The BCN Main Line, which we were on, runs more or less parallel to the Wolverhampton level which is twenty feet higher.  Smethwick locks are closed, and also the Wolverhampton flight which could have been an option for us if they were open, so we couldn’t have gone that way, but we didn’t want to anyway.  Maybe that is why this cascade of water was running so vigorously – it appears to be coming directly from the upper level.

One of the landmarks on the New Main Line

I picked them up at the towpath closure further along.  It’s been closed for ages because there is an unsafe building alongside, but the regulars had other ideas and the fences have been bent back at either end – at least one cyclist uses it, and one walker doesn’t, but we saw no-one else.  As usual (and as expected today) no-one was crossing the Stewart aqueduct, where the Wolverhampton Level crosses, and we saw no boats at all for a couple of hours, until, naturally, we wanted to turn left towards the Netherton tunnel.

We were a little closer so we went first

It was Andy Tidy on Wand’ring Bark towing the Jam Butty (aka Montgomery)

We forgot to time ourselves through Netherton tunnel, but we think it was about 35 minutes.  It has two towpaths, though one is closed.  Dave found it slightly harder than he expected to know exactly where he was in relation to the walls as the headlamp didn’t quite seem to illuminate them properly – the two towpaths make it very wide and we saw a reference in Towpath Talk to another tunnel being the ‘second widest after Netherton’.  We’ve been through this tunnel several times but never noticed this before.  There were several groups of walkers going through, which surprised us – it's nearly 2 miles long and we were pretty sure they had no idea it was going to be flooded in parts!

We thought Jess deserved a treat after being shut inside

We could choose our spot at Windmill End, and left plenty of room for Andy in case he was mooring but he wasn’t – he wanted to get onto the Staffs and Worcestershire soon and was on his way to Merry Hill today.  It was baking hot by now, so we had lunch and stayed in the relatively cool boat, and later when the sun was a little less fierce we walked up on the parkland around the Cobb Engine House.

Lightning rod on the chimney

The pond in one of the hollows is almost completely dry – just a small puddle at the far side.  Last time we were here at the end of April there was someone fishing.

We chatted to a family about free places to visit in Birmingham for a bit, but didn’t go far as it was too hot.

It looks as though it's trying to remember something...

On the way back we called at the cheese boat Just Imagine for some cheese, and it turned out a nice chat too in between his other customers, who mostly wanted ice-cream.

Captain Cheddar

A couple of chaps in an inflatable canoe hailed me as I looked out of the window – we had removed the hopper once the sun moved round a bit for a better air-flow – and asked if I had seen Davy Jones?  They were off to find his treasure.  They had no luck with that, but had been well refreshed on their journey I think ….

A couple of other boats had joined us on the mooring but we didn’t see many moving today.

Nearly 10 miles, 0 locks, Galton and Netherton tunnels

 

Birmingham, again

Sunday 24^th August; Birmingham

We didn’t wake up till after 8, after a quiet night with no idiots banging on boats as they went home.  Neither of us is on top form at the moment, we think we may have a virus, so we didn’t do much.  I went to the Tesco Metro in the Mailbox for a few bits and pieces but they didn’t have our paper of choice, so I came back via the Spar near the Sealife Centre, which did.  I was astonished to see so many security staff out and about in Brindley Place already – what do they think is going to happen at 10 in the morning as people are sitting blearily over their coffee or brunch?

Boaty Bull in Brindley Place

We walked to the Art Gallery which has re-opened after extensive refurbishment.  Sadly most of the actual pictures are still in store, as the gallery where they will be exhibited is still being restored.  There was an Ozzy Gallery of memorabilia, which was crowded with the curious as well as fans of the late singer, another of Birmingham history which we thought looked rather familiar, and an interesting gallery called the Elephant Room.  Each exhibit had an explanation of what it was and where it was made in Birmingham or the Black Country, and then what was the elephant in the room – uncomfortable facts that have been glossed over or ignored in the general telling of the history.  An example would be an old rifle; guns made in Birmingham were sold, then traded for slaves in Africa.  After slavery in the UK was abolished, the guns continued to be sold for uprisings and wars.  Or a curved sword, a copy of an original style made in India – which was produced cheaply in bulk and then sold in India, undercutting the local makers.  But most exhibits seemed to be aimed at children and young people, so we were rather disappointed.

This lovely ironwork was the best bit …

It was almost lunchtime and we needed energy to get back to the boat (and the dog), so we had tea and cake in the lovely quiet restaurant before strolling back to the boat through Centenary Square.

I had to do a double-take on this one

We first saw the tiger bull from the other side of Centenary Square, and it was weird seeing realistic tiger-stripes on the wrong-shaped beast.

Apart from when Dave took Jess for a play in the park, we did very little for the rest of the afternoon, apart from read the paper, watch passing boats and visit NB Goliath, the ice-cream boat.

He was having a very successful afternoon

I asked if he had any empty ice-cream tubs, expecting to pay a bit for them, but he was happy to give them away – I got two.  They make excellent containers for food waste, and if the bag becomes full you can just tie the top, put the lid back on the box and put it out in the well deck till you find boaters’ facilities with a food waste bin.  You press your second tub into service for the next lot.  So far it’s working very well.

There was much more boat movement today, and the blue-green algae has diminished considerably.  There was only one party boat which passed as our roast chicken was cooking, then it was a quiet evening.

Staying put

Saturday 23^rd August; Birmingham

The main reason for our long cruise yesterday was so that I could do parkrun at Edgbaston Reservoir this morning, so I was up early to take Jess out.  I noticed a few little patches of bright green algae suspended above thousands of little floating green filaments.  I hoped it wasn’t going to become a serious problem as it’s toxic to dogs – we don’t expect her to fall in but it has been known! And we often have to get her ball out of the water.  

Edgbaston Reservoir levels are well down

When Dave got back from Jess’s longer walk later that morning, he said the patches of algae were bigger further along the canal.  They seemed to have moved down towards the centre over the course of the morning.

Although the weather remained overcast all day, it was very hot.  We had planned to spend the afternoon at the Birmingham City Art Gallery which is open again after being closed for refurbishments, but we were both unusually tired so we didn’t and just relaxed for the afternoon.  I did go for a stroll later on and took our photo from across the canal.

Once more the trip boats had been active during the day.  The party boat’s early cruise was for a 50^th birthday party and the later one was another noisy affair with the flashing disco lights.  The steerer, who we had seen walking her dog earlier during the day, stood impassively at the tiller with her dog sitting patiently beside her.

It was another quiet night apart from an idiot at about 2 am banging on boat roofs as he passed.

 

A long haul into Birmingham

Friday 22^nd August; Hockley Heath to Birmingham

We made an early start today as it’s a long way to Birmingham from here.  At 8.10 it was chilly enough to be wearing gloves and a woolly hat, and then as I would be steering and having to stand still I changed from a short- to a long-sleeved t-shirt under my jumper and gilet.

Pleasant walking on the North Stratford

Dave and Jess were way ahead of me after a while, as there are long lines of moored boats to pass, first at Waring’s Green boatyard and then Lady Line, so they had quite a wait before I could pick them up later on.  After 3 hours’ cruising we met our first boat – not on the long stretches of wide canal, oh no.  We were both unsighted till almost the last minute but managed to avoid contact.

Blind bend, sight lines obscured by vegetation – of course we would meet a boat

By that time we had already come through Shirley Draw Bridge – as I wielded the key of power a car drove up, turned round and drove off – the road is a shortcut – and by the time I had lowered it I had caught five cars.  By late morning, it was warm in the sunshine and we had traversed Brandwood tunnel, which is just long enough to need the dog to be shut securely inside.  For tunnels less than 100 metres long she sits on the stern locker and I hold her collar, but for anything longer she has to be out of the way for everyone’s safety.  She doesn’t like tunnels – the darkness is one thing, but being shut inside the boat even with the lights on is just terrible!

Why, Mum?  Why can’t I come out?

After several attempts she has cracked the knack of sitting on the top step without falling off.  Our other dogs used to go to sleep on our bed, but Jess doesn’t want to miss a thing.  Once through the stop lock near King’s Norton junction, with its permanently open guillotine gates, we pulled in on the rings just after it for lunch.  Then we had to crack on into Birmingham, turning onto the Worcester and Birmingham at the junction.

Hey! Welcome to the Worcester and Birmingham

It is not a thrilling cruise on the way into the city, and it’s hard to find something new to photograph.  

First some flowers - amphibious bistort, Persicaria amphibia

And now a new photo of the railway enthusiast’s garden

We made a short stop at bridge 80 for a quick trip to Selly Oak Sainsbury’s, then it was the competition to be the first to spot the BT tower.

I won this time

There were lots of spaces to moor between the Mailbox ninety-degree bend and Gas Street Basin, but it’s often a wind-tunnel and there is too much footfall for us.  We moored as usual along the stretch opposite the Arena and Legoland, just as the 5 o’clock chimes from the musical clock sounded.  I found their location once though I've forgotten what it was, but they are not on the Edgbaston campus of the university, nor at New St station which is what Google insists I want.  I ordered a take-away from the Indian restaurant on Broad Street, and walked up to collect it.  The security staff were out in force keeping an eye on the hordes thronging the bars and restaurants of Brindley Place along the way.  Barajee is directly above Broad Street tunnel, and the road in front of it crosses what is now called Black Sabbath bridge.

A constant stream of fans and the curious is visiting the bench commemorating the band after the recent death of Ozzy Osborne.

The Sherborne Wharf trip boats had stopped passing soon after we moored, their place soon taken by the party boat - the first party had a large group of women singing along lustily to a popular record which may or may not have been by flavour of the moment Taylor Swift, and the second, much louder, was a mixed group dancing and yelling above the noise of the music.

Having fun

There was live music at the Distillery pub along the way too but surprisingly it was all quiet at bedtime.

15 miles, 8 hours, no locks, no manual lift bridges, Shirley Drawbridge, Brandwood, Edgbaston and Broad Street tunnels.

Narrow locks at last!

Thursday 21^st August; Shrewley tunnel to Hockley Heath

After breakfast I walked back to Shrewley tunnel and through the horse tunnel to go to the shop in the village above, so it was nearly 10 before we were ready to leave.  It was cool enough for me to wear long trousers, though I did change into shorts before Kingswood Junction.  I even had time to make and drink a strategic pot of strong coffee, to give me at least the illusion of energy to get us up Lapworth locks.

How are they finding anything to eat?

We needed water.  There are two taps on the North Stratford, which we were about to join; one at the facilities block above the first lock going down, and the other a couple of locks further up the flight.  I peeped through the trees and could just see a boat on the services mooring, so we didn’t go through the narrow Lapworth Link, the shortcut if you are going south, instead going up lock 20 which avoids the tight turn to the alternative lock.

First narrow lock of this trip

As I filled the next lock, the two volunteers who helped us on the Hatton flight appeared.  Connor is autistic and learning disabled, as he freely tells you, and Bill acts as his partner and helps with any difficulties in communication – some people will not engage with Connor or find him hard to relate to.  He certainly knows his stuff around locks.  Unlike yesterday, when he spent most of our chats worrying about the state of the canals and climate change, today we got onto the subject of differing lock gear, broad and narrow locks and where he has been on his canal-boat holidays, not to mention the improvements he would like to see made.  He knows a lot about the canals!

After a few more locks there is a long pound with good moorings, and as we wanted to have lunch before we tackled the rest of the flight we pulled in, and Connor and Bill went to help the boat which had appeared behind us.

Lock 14 is the first of the rest – 13 more to go

It was pleasantly warm, not too hot, as we climbed the rest of the flight.  When we saw Bill and Connor a while later, they were on their way back to the CRT buildings for their lunch break and we didn’t see them again.

This flight has the waterfall-type bywash overflows

I was still tired from coming up the Hatton flight yesterday, and much of the paddle gear was equally heavy, or even worse.  But at only 4 turns of the windlass rather than 21 I wasn’t complaining!

Flowers provided a distraction from the work – this is flowering rush, Butomus umbellatus

Arrowhead, Sagittaria sagittifolia

After lock 6 there is a gap before the next lock, so weary crew can have a rest, but the pound below it is short and curved.  We were once coming down, many years ago, when a 70-footer was coming up.  Fortunately they were old hands (at the time we definitely weren’t) and knew exactly where both boats should be positioned to avoid either getting grounded.  But this time there was no-one else around.

Not only does lock 6 have the attractive split bridge characteristic of the Stratford canal, it also has a ‘cotton-reel’ device on the rail to help get a towrope across the canal where the towpath changes sides.

I got back on the boat after lock 6, and with a bit of a rest (and some chocolate) was fit enough to do the remaining 4 locks, which are in 2 pairs of 2.  At the first pair is a cricket field, suffering in the drought (though the crease looks as though it has been watered).

At last we reached Lapworth Top Lock.  An American gentleman used to live in the cottage alongside with his wife, always neatly dressed and he used to come out and help.  When his wife died many years ago he moved down to the village, and we used to see him taking his daily stroll along the flight, aways happy to chat to boaters.  But he was getting on in years and we knew he was ill, and he takes those strolls no longer.

Lapworth Top Lock

Above the lock was a sizeable length of branch, sodden and half submerged, clearly from a tree that had come down a while ago.  Two larger logs had been secured on the offside with rope, but although I could push this one out of the way with the boat-hook it would be far too heavy for us to drag out.  We have been jammed in a lock by a waterlogged chunk of timber before, so I rang CRT to report it.  We wanted to get on further today, so continued through the two lift bridges that follow the lock flight.  The first was fairly easy, and so was the second although we ran over some obstacle in the middle of the channel just before it and ground to a halt.  We were very lucky that two brawny chaps were on their way to the pub and were willing to take the rope I threw them.  They got us closer to the towpath so Dave could get off, and it took all three of them to drag us clear.  That got reported to CRT as well, though as a hire boat passed us once we were moored at Hockley Heath our passage had probably moved it out of the way and they had had no trouble.

19 locks, 2 lift bridges, 5 miles, 1 grounding, 1 crew member looking forward to a day without locking tomorrow.

Slow going up Hatton

Wednesday 20^th August; the Cape to Shrewley Tunnel (north end)

It had been a bit drizzly overnight and was damp this morning, but not enough to make the towpath wet.  Before we left I took a bowl to collect some damsons from the tree opposite the pub, as did the boater from Achenar, the newish boat from the pair in front of us yesterday.  He is travelling with his mate, another single-hander, to Knowle for the winter, and they were intending to leave for the Hatton flight quite soon.  As we hadn’t even had breakfast we left them to it, and crossed our fingers that someone else would be wanting a locking partner.  They were, and had just opened the bottom lock ready.

Of course, with the two single-handers ahead we knew we would have to turn every lock.  The man on our partner boat had been boating for 3 years, but his wife for only a month.  She was not yet muscular enough to raise the paddle gear, though she could close the paddles and deal with most of the gates.  We quickly had a good routine, where I went to set the next lock and she closed up.  To minimise effort I only raised one paddle (the Hatton locks need 21 turns or more to raise them) and opened one gate.  After two or three locks I arrived at the next to find the two single-handers still in the lock.  They had been held back by our locking buddies from yesterday, the Kate boat, which had been getting to grips with ascending locks for the first time.  At Ugly bridge I had plenty of time to stroll over to the garage to buy a paper on my way to set the next lock.

It seemed to take an inordinate amount of time to do half the locks

At last we reached ‘the thick’, where locks are close together and at last volunteers were on their way, helping a boat down.  The top group of locks do not open till 10 as a water-saving measure, but it was well past that by the time we arrived.

Side pond in ‘the thick’

Dave had to persuade our locking partner to try and double-up between the locks and sometimes it worked.  They were quite a lot shorter than us so it was difficult until they found that his bow had to be level with ours for it to work.

Doubling up

At the CRT yard there is a longer gap to the next lock and there is a bend in the canal too, so the boats went one at a time.

I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt, and had to take my jumper off after the first few locks even though the weather was cloudy and distinctly cool.  But poor Jennifer from the other boat is from the Philippines, where the minimum temperature all year is 24 degrees.  She was not enjoying the drop in temperatures today!

Very well wrapped up against the chill

Just 4 locks to go now.  I was pretty tired, in spite of the help from the volunteers, as the paddle gear is heavy (did I mentioned 21 turns?) and I was beginning to get cold too.  The smell of bacon from the café was enticing!  Eventually, as the chain to lock the top gates was being readied, we arrived at the top lock.

Nearly there

We just made it for 1.30 and the top gates were locked behind us.  It had taken four and a half hours, much longer than we are used to, and I was shattered – but not too tired to enjoy a Light English Breakfast and an excellent and welcome mug of tea from the café.  Before we had the chance to relax we were off again – we wanted to get closer to Kingswood Junction as there will be more locks tomorrow.

Shrewley tunnel

t hasn’t rained properly for weeks, months, yet the tunnel and its mossy north portal are still dripping.  Where is the water coming from?

We moored just round the corner from the tunnel at about 4 in a gleam of sunshine, having started up the locks at 9 under chilly grey cloud.

21 locks, 4½ miles, Shrewley tunnel, crew totally pooped.